English Tourism Week 2026 in Banbury: Ride a What to Where?

Day 2 of my English Tourism Week 2026 in Banbury – and let’s start off today with a question.

If you asked to guess what Banbury is most famous for – and you weren’t allowed to say “being near Bicester Village” – what might you say?

Well, if you read yesterday’s post you might say Banbury cakes. But let’s pretend you didn’t read it and you suggest ….?

Yes! The nursery rhyme.  You know the one:

Ride a cock horse to Banbury Cross
To see a fine lady upon a white horse
With rings on her fingers and bells on her toes
She shall have music wherever she goes.

For many people, that rhyme is their very first (and only) introduction to Banbury. And they are often delighted to learn that there really is a Banbury Cross.

The one we see today in the town centre isn’t one of the original medieval crosses. There were three – the White Cross, the Bread Cross, and the main Market Cross. Those were removed by the Puritans around 1600-1602. I mean, what do you expect from people who would frown on pastry.

Anyway, you can see the marker where the original Market Cross stood in the marketplace near the entrance to Castle Quay.

The current Banbury Cross, the one in the roundabout at the end of the High Street, was built in 1859 to celebrate the marriage of Queen Victoria’s daughter, Victoria, to Prince Frederick of Prussia. And it has its own fine lady, in the form of a statue across the way.

The statue is a much more recent addition, installed in 2005 and now one of the most photographed sights in town. Quite rightly too – it’s a striking statue and, thanks to its placement, full of excellent photographic angles and backgrounds.

But here’s another question and one that has been debated for generations:

Who exactly is the Fine Lady?

There are several theories.

  • Some believe she represents Queen Elizabeth I, who is known to have visited Banbury in the 1500s. Not sure I buy that.
  • Others suggest she might be Celia Fiennes. Sure there’s a vague local link but still not convinced.
  • And some historians think the rhyme may never have referred to a specific person at all. Probably the most likely.

Whatever the answer, the rhyme, the cross, and the Fine Lady have become part of Banbury’s identity.

So if you’re in town this week for English Tourism Week, take a moment to stop by Banbury Cross.

You’ll find the Fine Lady still riding proudly through the centre of town – rings on her fingers, bells on her toes, and a nursery rhyme that has been carrying Banbury’s name across the world for a very long time.

#Banbury #EnglishTourismWeek2026

Who’s Riding to Which Cross?

Tell someone you live in Banbury & they’ll start reciting:

Ride a cock-horse to Banbury Cross,
To see a fine lady upon a white horse;
Rings on her fingers and bells on her toes,
And she shall have music wherever she goes.

Considering how well-known that little ditty is you’d think we’d know a lot about its origins but we don’t. We don’t know:

  • which cross they are talking about,
  • who is riding to that cross,
  • how many versions of the rhyme there are,
  • when the rhyme first showed up,
  • what they meant by cock-horse,
  • how the frog fits in.

There are quite likely people who have studied this whole thing in depth and can talk for hours about the origins and meaning of it all. To normal, everyday people (like me and I suspect, you) the information seems inconsistent and like many questions involving oral traditions of this type -definitive answers are lost in time. So what do we have? Thanks to those people who did all the studying – we have informed guesses. So let’s get to guessing. Continue reading “Who’s Riding to Which Cross?”

The Art Part of Banbury

Banbury may be known for cakes, crosses and fine ladies on cock-horses but it’s worth noting that scattered about town you’ll find a range of public art. By public art, I mean either art paid for out of public funds or art which has come about via private means that happens to be in the public space. (All pictures below by Modern Parlance Photos)

a faux banksy in banbury

No, it’s not a Banksy but who cares? It’s entertaining and brightens up that little corner of the street.

The faux Banksy (above) sits on Butcher’s Row which also features an arch – spandrels, I am told they are called – where that streets meets the High Street. The “charms” hanging off the arch represent the various things traditionally found in the market (Banbury is a market town) back in days of yore. “Yore” wasn’t all that long ago in this instance – bell bottom jeans died first.

The sun, which anchors the piece and hangs prominently in the center – well, that shows up all over town and in all sorts of ways. It’s been a traditional heraldic symbol of Banbury since 1500s or so. You’ll also see the sun on the planters in and around the town centre. Those were designed by artist Pam Foley and were commissioned by Cherwell District Council in 2007.

The other main pedestrian thoroughfare in Old Town is Parsons’ Street and here we have a series of inlays commissioned when the street was repaved and which tell the commercial history of the street. To be honest, until just recently I had never taken that close a look at the inlays but I found them so interesting, I’m gonna give them a post of their own. Soon.

JL Pilsworth was quite the department store in town – no fewer than six spaces on two sides of the street (adjacent spaces linked by connecting doors).

One of the most photographed spots in town is this one – just off the roundabout where North, South and West Bar meet. This is, of course, the statue of the Fine Lady of which I have written before and she is making her way to the Banbury Cross.


Fine Lady on her horse – facing the (not original but Victorian) Banbury Cross in the roundabout. I feel I really ought to put up a picture of the little frog as well (it’s under the horse’s raised hoof) but that can wait for another day. (Picture by Modern Parlance Photos)

If one cross is good, two were considered by some to be better. There is a large metal sculpture on Castle Street, sitting next to the Bolton Road Car Park (you can tell this picture isn’t the most recent as the multi-story is still in it – but never mind). Story goes that the artist either thought of it as a modern Banbury Cross, called it that or wanted it to become the modern Banbury Cross. There are a couple of stories on how it came to be – any or all of which may or may not be true. I am finding it difficult to find an actual paper trail on it.


Maybe they “lost the paperwork” in the same way that the placement of the piece suggests someone was hoping it would get lost as well. If you don’t know it is there – and many don’t – and you aren’t looking, it fades right into the car park behind it. One wonders – or at least I wonder – what will happen to this installation. Will they move it? Toss it? Save it and reinstall it next to whatever is replacing the car park? Which ever they do – it is pretty obvious that maintaining it has never been high on anyone’s list. It looks a right mess, there’s no plaque explaining anything about it, no artist named and as far as I can tell, it has no official name of its own. I did see it called Castle Cross on some website but – again, who knows. In this picture, it actually looks not too bad. A tribute to the photographer.

In a slightly more central location – right along the canal and next to the Mill Arts Centre are a small group of markers which I am almost sure have something to do with the industrial days of the canal. I have looked at the inscriptions and it’s all about coal and canal horses but I have yet to transcribe them. The markers themselves look utterly different at different times of day. They’re a constantly changing piece depending on light and position.


I love these markers at the Mill Arts Centre and I know nothing about them. I must rectify that. The Mill Arts Centre is also home to two wire sculptures – “The Dancers” and “Spaghetti-Legged Pete” – seen below (Picture by Modern Parlance Photos)

Next to the pedestrian bridge over the canal nearest the Mill Arts Centre is the first of the wire sculptures – which I call “sassy pirate” but which is allegedly called “Spaghetti-legged Pete” – something I was unable to confirm when this picture was taken since the plaque seems to be … missing.

The second wire sculpture – just past the pedestrian bridge in a small garden area of the Centre is “The Dancers” – now this plaque is very much in place and since the pieces are the same medium and style, I am guessing both were done by “students in the Learning Disability Classes working with David Gosling” at around the same time (2005).

In another of the many green spots around town, there is a bit of – well, a sort of totem pole piece. This is “Shine & Shade” (thanks to Kitty for the correct info) and it is next to the Aviary in People’s Park.

One of my favourite pieces of art about town is the gate at Tooley’s Boatyard. Not only is the gate itself fantastic, but the planting around it means it changes ever so slightly over time.

There are quite a few other examples of street art around town in a range of styles, there’s the floral horse outside Lock29, the Banbury Cross itself,  and murals at Castle Quay (outside and inside in Lock29) and Bridge Street  which have, in the past, triggered some …. robust public debate. And no, I am not wading into a debate about the Bridge Street mural. I didn’t get into it when it became the pigeon. I didn’t get into it when the pigeon went away and I am not getting into it now

The great thing about art – all of it – is that there is no right or wrong. Everyone brings something else to it – even when they are just looking at it, much less creating it. So everyone takes something different away from each piece. I love that about art.